Ultra Marathon #5: The Kerry Way Ultra

Race Introduction:

The Kerry Way Ultra is a 200 km nonstop foot race that takes place in early September. The race starts at 6 am on a Friday morning. The contestants then have 40 hours to complete the 200 km that runs parallel to the Ring of Kerry. This race is the longest Ultra Marathon in Ireland. It is recognized as one of the toughest Ultra's in Europe, attracting attention from around the world. The route takes in some of the most iconic trails and sites in Kerry such as Torc Waterfall, The Old Kenmare Road, Black Valley, Standing Stones, Brida Valley, Butter Roads, Mountain Passes, Atlantic Coastal Cliff's, Forrest's, Rivers and Bog's.

Background:

When I lived down in Killorglin (Kerry) I would often go for a run on the nearby trails and noticed little yellow men hiking signs marking a route. With time, I discovered that the route was a trail that ran parallel to the Ring of Kerry. I searched the internet for a map of the entire route and I came across the website for the Kerry Way Ultra Marathon. At this point in time, I had not even run a half marathon but the idea of running out in the wild on the trails around Kerry totally captured my imagination.

In December 2017 - Rosa and myself where in the Bushmills Whiskey Distillery in Antrim and being generous to ourselves, we bought a few bottles of whiskey. As time went on, I felt guilty of falling into the consumer trap and paying a lot for whiskey that I did not necessarily need or really know how to appreciate so I decided to use them as rewards. I placed a ‘post it’ on a 12 year old aged bottle of Bushmills stating -

The Completion of the Kerry Way Ultra 2018, Signed James Morrissey 06 Jan 2018.

The bottle was left in plain sight in my bedroom and every day I would see it.

Having the mind focused and having events like the Maurice Mullin, The Great Wall of China Marathon and the disappointment of my DNF on the Wicklow Way all behind me. I was itching to get to the starting line.

Registration:

Registration for the race took place on Thursday at 6 pm in the Portwest adventure shop in Killarney. Across from registration is an Apache Pizza and just before I went in for registration I ordered a large Hawaiian that I asked to be delayed for 15 min so I could collect it on my way back. Smitten with how clever I was having ordered my pizza , I then went across the road to register. There are five steps to registration that go as follows:

• First Step: Gear check which for this race consisted of - Waterproof jacket & trousers, Head torch, Route Map, Mobile Phone, Bivy Foil (sheet of tin foil), Whistle, First Aid Kit, Gloves, Hat, Water & Food.

• Second Step: Signing in. Best not to ask too many questions here, what I am exactly signing for I wasn't sure of really as I gave my signature. Everyone involved is of good character and I knew I’d be looked after well.

• Third Step: Involves getting a personal GPS Tracker attached to my running vest. This would be my eye in the sky through which people could track my progress, the race organizers could see if I was on course and it would also give me my finishing time.

• Fourth Step: Put my drop bags that I had organised for each checkpoint into their respective containers. The next time I would see each of these bags is at the respective checkpoint as I would run into them.

• Fifth Step: Course Tutorial - Eileen Daly, the Wildest and Kindest Lady in the country, is the Race Director of the Kerry Way Ultra and she gave us an overview of the course.

With that registration was complete. The event had now become very real. I was definitely a lot more nervous collecting my pizza, then I had been when I ordered it!! I then made my way to Killorglin to stay with good friends: Nigel and Jordan. We sat and had a beer while catching up and then I made my way to bed excited about the adventure that lay ahead.

The Race:

The start of the Kerry Way Ultra has always been Randles Garage, a petrol station. The contestants huddle together for a customary group photo, where everyone is all smiles, excited to have gotten to the starting line. At 6 am the race started.

Stage 1 - Killarney to Lord Brandons Cottage

The route follows the street lights out of Killarney, past the Gleneagle Hotel and into the National park. The first 2 km I spent pretty much by myself letting people pass me by until a friend of mine, Tom Downes, rocked up beside me and we jogged lightly together. Tom completed this race last year and we had run the Sli na Gealthacht na Mhurcai together. Through the National park we ran using the light of our head torches as the sun had yet to rise. At Torc Waterfall the day was beginning to brighten as we went up the Cardiac Steps and onto the trail leading out into the wilder countryside. The morning was beautiful and the sun was starting to warm us up as the views opened up in front of us. We reached the old Kenmare Road and turned right shuffling along nicely. I tried to eat something despite not being hungry. My aim was to eat roughly 600 calories every hour but the trick was to not eat anymore than 300 calories at a time as it would require too much effort to digest. This self-imposed rule would be relaxed slightly at checkpoints. The trail into Lord Brandon's cottage was beautiful as the sun now shone bright. At the first checkpoint, I filled up a hand held water bottle and grabbed some fruit. Checkpoint 1 was not somewhere anyone wanted to stay too long.

Stage 2 - Lord Brandons Cottage to Glencar

This section started off on a flat road where I was able to run. At one point I had to stop for a farmer shepherding sheep across the road. I helped as best I could and then set off running again. The road then started to incline, I started walking and ate a small bit as I moved. When I caught up to Tom again he started telling me about his adventures in Italy during the summer where he took part in an Ultra marathon over there, close to the Alps. The weather was fantastic and we were moving at a comfortable pace,which allowed us to chat. Towards the end of the Black Valley, we started to hike but could see no one in front of us which suggested the rest of the participants had started quite fast as this was the type of incline that would normally bring everyone together.

Close to the top of the hill there are standing stones placed in line with the valley to cast shadows during the winter solstice, I can only imagine how old this structure is. At the top I had the beauty of the Black Valley behind me as I started down the steep slope into the Brida Valley. I normally thrive descending these types of hills but in an effort to be more conservative on my quads I dialled the effort down and took my time descending. At the bottom, we ran again before tackling another big climb. I maintained a good steady hiking pace. At the top we were close to Carrintohill and could see it clearly in the blue sky. The task then changed to descend and Tom led this section. We were moving strong now and had passed out a few people as we moved towards the next checkpoint. Eventually we made it to the checkpoint outside the Climbers Inn in Glencar. We took 10 mins, filled up our water, had a bite to eat and I changed socks. It was nice to sit down for 5 mins but with the sun out I wanted to keep moving.

Stage 3- Glencar to Glenbeigh

Walking out of the checkpoint I put on my sun glasses as the beautiful day continued. Tom caught up and we took off running, passing out a few more participants as we moved. The next section was beautiful, the path was full of steps with an over head covering of tree branches. This is definitely a section I will revisit for a walk in the future, I really enjoyed zipping around the trail in Lacken Wood.

Eventually the trail came out onto a road and went up hill again continuing onto a trail and climbing towards the top of the Windy Gap. I kept hiking strong with Tom on this long climb. At the top I got a blast of fresh sea air and the views over Rossbeigh beach across the sea towards the Dingle Peninsula where fantastic.

Slow yet steady, I made my way down the other side of the hill still preserving my quads as it was a short run into Glenbeigh and Checkpoint 3. As I made it in to the checkpoint I sat down again. I changed my socks and t-shirt. It was nice to have the feel of fresh clothes. I ate some fruit then stretched before nipping into the shop across the road for a cup of tea and a bottle of coconut water. Tom needed a longer break so I set off walking at a leisurely pace. Another Checkpoint behind me.

Stage 4 - Glenbeigh to Foilmore

There is a beautiful trail through a pine forest that the route takes the participants out of Glenbeigh for about 2 km. The trail then merges onto a back road that was long, straight and uphill, that was tough by myself.

Eventually I caught up with two other contestants as we took a left over a bridge taking us over the traditional Ring of Kerry route which all the tourists take in the comfort of buses! Soon after we were back on the trail again hiking and running up one of the most beautiful sections of the course with mountainous terrain on my left and a cliff over the Atlantic on my right. It's a beautiful segment that is well worth a walk on a fine day. At the top it was almost a shame to leave the beauty behind. The rain started to get strong I looked at the route descend and it was a perfect opportunity to build some time. I took off running as the group I was in stretched out. I was now by myself again. At one point, I passed what must of been the most content cattle in Ireland, as they sat on the trail refusing to move, looking at me as they chewed the cud! Once I skipped passed those cows, I set off running downhill again coming on to a road that then levelled out leading me to resort to a shuffle. For the first time, I could see the outline of Tom behind me and as I crossed the field to enter the GAA hall in Foilmore,I slowed right down so that we could walk in together. When we got inside the hall it was a relief to be in out of the rain and cold that was now becoming prevalent. I changed the food rations in my running vest, my t-shirt and socks, had a bit to eat, drank a cup of tea and sat down for a short period. One of the crew managing the checkpoint put a bowl of small baby potatoes down in front of me with a salt shaker. Those potatoes were absolutely lovely and I could feel them warm up my body as I swallowed them. Spirits were now pretty high.

Stage 5 - Foilmore to Waterville

Tom and I left the Foilmore checkpoint together. This was important for me as it was starting to get dark now and it would certainly be dark by the time I got to Waterville. I was now embarking on the only part of the course I had no clue or idea about so it was important to buddy up. The next section was full of steep hills and boggy sections so movement was quite slow. There was little conversation as we concentrated on hiking sections of hills that continued to go up and down. This section brought a lot of runners together. Tom and I passed out one or two as we switched the role of being out in front instinctively at different segments up and down. I think this kept both of us fresh and moving strong which allowed us to keep warm. Eventually we started to descend, this was a good sign as we were leaving the boggy yellow hilly mountain section behind. At the bottom we came out onto a road. Tom pointed across to the next mountain which looked about 5 km or more away that we had to get too. Running along a road we caught up with Ray Lawlor, another good friend. I was delighted as I knew Ray would slot into our group and I'd be with two excellent night navigators who had completed the course last year. Ray had also acquired a follower, Jan, who was from the Czech Republic and was thinking along the same lines as myself in terms of pairing up with an experienced runner. Despite all our talk, the four of us where still making steady progress forward and made it to the foot of the next hill where we pulled out the head torches. Ray set off leading us up the trails, this looked like a big mountain so it was going to take its toll on all of us as the night got dark, wet and cold. What felt like 3 quarters way up the mountain Tom went out in front and led us up further. The weather had now turned horrible and the misty foggy rain meant we had little visibility barely seeing 4 feet in front of us with our head torches. Just as the route started to decline I could see lights moving in every direction. As we got closer , it became clear it was someone. I knew who it was before I could see him. Behind the head torch and flashlight cursing about the route in the thickest Dublin accent you ever heard was Noel Ward.

Like Tom and Ray, Noel is another strong ultra-runner who has achieved some fantastic feats of endurance over the years. I've known Noel for more than a year and whenever I meet him he is just bubbling with energy. When we met him slightly off track in the rain, cold and pitch black darkness on top of a mountain roughly 100 km or so into an Ultra, Noel was no different and bought a smile to all our faces, with his usual giving out and laughing. We were now headed for Waterville. Noel took off at his own pace by himself. Jan was now full of chat and he wanted to buy us beer and then listed the benefits of having a beer during an Ultra, but none of us where too enthusiastic about the prospect of having a pint with so much of the course left to do.

The thought had crossed my mind that Neil Butler, a longtime friend of mine, and Rosa might be at this checkpoint. Both Neil and Rosa each had work that Friday. They met up in Cork and drove to Waterville together to crew for me through the toughest night sections of the course and help me finish. As I ran into Waterville, I got to the checkpoint and before entering put my hands on my legs to take a deep breath. When I looked up I saw a Black Golf at the entrance with Neil and Rosa inside. Well I can tell you I was pretty glad to see them. It was great to have their help getting ready for the next section. I changed my socks, shoes and t shirt. I had a pot noodle and great support. The guys were exactly the boost I needed. When I left Waterville in the dark at 11 pm on Friday, I knew I was now in with a pretty good chance as I had the right runners with me as well as a fantastic support crew.

Stage 6 - Waterville to Caherdaniel

We had passed Waterville well ahead of the first cut-off point which was 4 am. This gave me confidence as I felt relatively good and the section to Caherdaniel was short. The route out of Waterville is a small bit tricky, as it switches between roads and trails. Ray and Tom were on the ball here and kept Jan and myself on point as we followed. The route then went directly up. I was happy hiking strong up this route. When we got to the top I started to shuffle behind Tom down. Whatever shoes Jan had on he seemed to keep slipping that night. I shortened my steps to react to the wet conditions. Thankfully I didn't fall at any stage.

As we made our way into Caherdaniel I started to fall behind a small bit. I ran the last 2 km into Caherdaniel by myself delighted with how my race was working out.

Neil met me out on the road, walking passed the local pub with people on the door step having a cigarette looking at us in the pouring rain as if we had escaped from a mental asylum.

Once I got inside the hall in Caherdaniel, I took off my soaking shoes with help from Rosa and Neil. I lay on the floor of the hall with my feet raised on the chair. The blood rushed down from my feet and it felt amazing. While on the floor I ate some porridge which was lovely as it heated me up. I put on a new pair of socks, pulled up a pair of waterproof pants, put on a warm Regatta Coat under my waterproof coat and a new buff to keep my head warm. Ready to go, I re-grouped with Tom, Ray and Jan, ready to rock.

Stage 7- Caherdaniel to Sneem

We set out and I felt great, despite the awful weather. I was now comfortable in the conditions as I knew that this was going to be the last night section. The route then took us up some hills where the rain had turned the trails into streams. Each step created a splash, with my runners submerged in water. At no point did I actually think this was madness as the rain drove into my face, I was simply determined to keep up with the guys. At this point I had hiking poles that helped me move forward and stay on my feet as the trail was wet and slippy. I was now hiking strong and focused on keeping up with Tom, Ray and Jan. I remember after jumping across a stream that had widened we walked a few steps on wards and then Ray stopped. The four of us stood in a circle as Ray explained he wasn't sure if we were on the right track. Jan had a very strong head torch and after rotating him around a couple of times, like a light house, Tom's eagle eye spotted a stile. We made our way over to it and were back on track. When things like that go your way you are simply blessed, otherwise there is no telling how long you could be lost or off track. As we hiked up another trail that had been converted into a stream I was still moving well. The weather was absolutely awful and I had never been out during a night in such terrible conditions. As we started to descend from the hills out popped a man’s head from a tent. John Lenihan is one of Ireland's Mountain Running legends, who ran competitively in Europe in the 90's (I think). Now it is custom to find John Lenihan out camping along the route the night of the Kerry Way Ultra encouraging runners as they pass. Respect to John for coming out and supporting the runners. "Lenihan's Lounge" is now part of the fabric of the race.

As we continued, I started to fall behind the guys, I was not too worried as I was moving strong just not as strong as Ray and Tom were. I could see the lights of Sneem and was pretty happy to be edging closer. As I continued to shuffle forward I could see the guy’s head torches a couple of hundred meters ahead. When we came in under the streetlights, I met Rosa who gave me a hug and a few words of encouragement. In Sneem there was a large fire setup outside and the heat from it was lovely. Tom had set himself up beside it and looked happy out. Rosa and Neil sat me down on a chair and immediately went to work on me. They took off my shoes - my feet were withered with the damp and looked horrible. Rosa dried them up as best she could and put a small bit of powder on them before putting on a fresh pair of socks, a new t-shirt and a new raincoat and buff. I drank a cup of soup and a cup of tea to warm myself up. Tom, Ray and Jan assembled by the fire ready to tackle the last 57 km of the route.

Stage 8 - Sneem to Templenoe

This time last year, I had ran the Kerry Way Ultra Lite which is a 57 km route from Sneem to Killarney. I was delighted with myself when I completed it. Having now completed approx 140 km I was hoping to draw on my past positive experience to get myself back to Killarney. Tom, Ray, Jan and myself set off slow. The rain had stopped and the sun was starting to come up. We talked and laughed about different things glad to have the night behind us. It was time to start moving again strong with a bit of purpose. I struggled from the get go and eventually the guys pulled away. This was no big deal as it was getting bright and I was happy to be moving at my own pace. The Kerry Way Ultra Lite would be starting at 9 am and I imagined myself in a race with them. I wanted to be as far ahead as I could before they would catch me. As the route went up a beautiful enclosed butter road I kept hiking strong, happy at how I was moving. On a road section, I was now running steadily by myself until I came to a junction I did not recognize or could see no route signs. Upon checking the map, I realized to much annoyance that I was a kilometer off route and needed to go back. As I made my way back, I kept telling myself that this is a 200 km route through the wilds of Kerry, you have to expect to get a small bit lost at some point. At least it was now bright and I could find my way back. Frustrated that the guys had probably pulled away altogether. And the Ultra Lite contenders would catch me , I feared that time was against me, I moved strong while having some pretty tough conversations with myself. The section along the waterfront into Templenoe is simply beautiful but I was just not in the mental space to enjoy it. In time, I made it out onto the long stretch of road and ran up to the checkpoint I was still kicking myself for getting lost. Rosa walked in the last few yards with me and told me that Tom and Ray were in the aid station. I had expected them to be long gone. Rosa was brilliant at this point, she was so positive. I sat down and recognized Adrian Corsini managing the checkpoint. Adrian worked with me in Killorglin and not wanting to appear like a moaning negative sack of bones, which was how I actually felt. I tried to have a laugh with him. Tom got ready to move on and said a few words before he left. I had a cup of tea and got ready to go again. This checkpoint was exactly what I needed as I literally "faked it, till I made it" in terms of changing my attitude around. I got my hiking poles back into my hands and set off.

Stage 9 - Templenoe to Kenmare

This section sets off with the most frustrating loop that adds about 6 kilometers on road, but as it is part of the official Kerry Way it has to be done. The cut off time for Kenmare is 4 pm. I moved like it was 3.30 pm and I was mad to be there, I think it was actually 12.00 pm. Just as I finished the loop, the leader of the Ultra lite passed me. I ran until he went out of sight. Then as the route went up hill I hiked. I tip toed along a rough path through forest with some of the other Ultra Lite contestants and then went down through the bog field which is a wet miserable field no matter what time of the year you might go through it. I was tipping along nicely at this point, out of the fear I was going to miss the cut off- a fear I had invented myself. As I got to the top of the hill looking down into Kenmare, I was pretty satisfied at my progress until it came to descending down into Kenamre. The blisters on the balls of my feet and toes along with my quads seizing up made descending hard. It was a tough battle getting into Kenmare. Just as I came out onto the road,I overtook Jan, to my surprise. As I ran up through Kenmare I met Rosa and then Neil as I crossed the road. I was full of energy. I was glad to see Tom when I made it to the checkpoint. I was like a man possessed as fear was now driving me to keep going. I made it into Kenmare around 1.30 pm and as stupid as it may sound I was afraid of being out in the dark again. I estimated that the way I was now moving it may take me 6 hours to Killarney. Neil loaded up my water bladder with cola and Rosa filled up my vest with Gel's and jellies. I was hoping to ride a sugar wave until the end. Once I had consumed some porridge oats and took a few gulps of cola I was ready to go.

Stage 10 - Kenmare to Killarney

Getting out of Kenmare is tough as it involves climbing three tough hills. The first one is probably the longest, as every time you think you've made it to the top it kicks on and ascends higher. The decent on the other side was horrible, I struggled with blisters and tired quad muscles. When I made it to the bottom I was almost delighted as it meant I could hike again. Despite it being tough going uphill it was a lot easier on the legs. As I moved off the road onto a fire road trail I was still tipping along quite strong. The weather had improved coming out of Kenmare but as I reached the highest point on the third climb the weather turned horrible once again. Last year when I ran this section in the Ultra Lite there was an Orange weather warning so to be fair the weather seems to be consistently awful on this section. It felt like it took me ages to get down off that route.

I was delighted to make the turn off to the right back to Killarney as it felt like a major milestone. I was flirting with shapes in the distance, hallucinating thinking I could see the outline of people so I was taking on more sugar to counteract this. Eventually I made it to the steps at Torc Waterfall. Neil and Rosa were waiting for me and helped me waddle down the steps as my quads had now seized up fully. Neil drove the car to the finish line which was about 5 km away. Rosa walked with me through the National Park. Once you pass Torc Waterfall contestants are free to take whatever path they wish through the National Park. Rosa took some hardship from me as it took everything to just keep moving forward. Tiredness had now overcome my body. It was now really hard to keep warm as I shivered constantly. Finally we managed to get out of the National Park and it was a death march as I followed the footpath into Killarney. A good few contestants passed me in the final 3 km, normally this would drive me on but I was just doing well to keep marching slowly now, as my Achilles and feet were now in serious pain. Rosa pointed out the finish line and I shuffled harder, as I like to finish strong. What started out as a pipe dream 3 years ago was now a reality as I made the finish line I had run 200 km in 36 h and 55 min.

Finish:

At the finish line I wanted to get Rosa and Neil into a photo. They had been amazing since 11 pm on Friday and here we were now at 7 pm Saturday at the finish. The guys had been fantastic in terms of motivating and preparing me to keep going. The effort they went through to keep me in shape was amazing and I appreciate it as they put their lives on hold for a night without sleep to support me.

The picture at the end with them is brilliant , I'm wearing Rosa's jacket and hat looking like Mrs. Doyle, I'm surrounded by two people who had been selfless in helping me achieve my goal. It was great to have a team photo at the finish.

The finish line is brilliant with no fuss and no gimmicks. Just a sign placed on a footpath. A guy takes the tracker off your bag and shakes your hand and that’s you done. If you feel like it there are usually a few bottles of beer floating around but otherwise it’s just a tight crew of people embracing each other before they disappear to somewhere warm where they can rest.

As has become the norm after major Ultras,Rosa drove, this time to Killorglin. I was tasked with giving her directions and was very lucid in the passenger seat. Once we arrived I immediately went for a shower and that was it. Once I hit the pillow I was asleep within seconds.

Kerry Way Ultra Brunch:

On the Sunday morning, contestants from the Ultra and Ultra Lite meet up in the hotel opposite the finish line for breakfast. The stories are amazing, as you listen to tales of those who made it in on time, those who barely made it, those who had bad luck and missed a cut off time. The legends start to grow, as tales circulate about the winners and those who have done it more than once like John Boyle who has completed 5 in a row. Gavin Byrne won the Ultra in a time of 26 hrs and 38 mins this is a fantastic time but what was more staggering was the fact that it was only 3 min ahead of Sean Clifford who finished in second place. Had there been another kilometer to go it was likely Sean could have caught Gavin. I find it crazy that after 200 km of racing over 26 hours that only 3 min separated these guys. Claire Morrissey (no relation) was a lady I ran with at a few different points, she was the only lady to finish the Ultra and showed serious strength.

During the brunch, I managed to catch up with the Soggy Bottom Boys a group made up of the central characters to this story - Tom Downes, Ray Lawlor and myself, which we formed back in March. I thanked the guys for their help during the night section and congratulated them as they both achieved new personal best times for the route. I am truly grateful to call these guys friends and look forward to running with them again in the future.

Eventually the brunch came to an end and that bought an end to a fantastic running weekend.

I am proud to be a finisher of this race and delighted to have broken 100 miles. Leaving Kerry on the Sunday I left with the feeling that there is still more for me to achieve on this route and in this event in the future. I look forward to returning again but for the moment I will concentrate on my recovery and opening up that 12 year old bottle of Bushmills with Rosa and Neil.