Mount Kilimanjaro

Introduction:

In 2010, I went to Moshi, Tanzania - young, naive and wired for adventure. In the morning I worked in a local school, teaching English and Science. In the evenings I helped out in a local orphanage. Those three weeks in Moshi were amazing and very, very rewarding. During this time, I fell in love with the culture, wildlife and the natural landscape that surrounded Moshi.

Late each evening at a nearby park, the locals and volunteers would get together to play a game of soccer. As we struggled to play on a red dirt pitch made up of jumpers for goalposts, we had the most beautiful views of Mount Kilimanjaro.

Not knowing much about the effects of altitude, expeditions or mountains, the notion crossed my mind that it might be cool to come back some day and climb to the roof of Africa.

There is never a right time to do some things and after asking a few friends in the early months of 2017 if they were interested in climbing Mount Kilimanjaro, it quickly became apparent that this type of expedition wasn't for everyone or that the timing didn't suit!

I made the decision to go by myself. That actually didn't bother me, as the time felt right and I had become focused on the idea of getting to the top of one of the Seven Summits.

With the limited amount of holidays my job allowed, it suited me better to go with a tour company to maximize my time in Tanzania and ensure a greater chance of success in getting to the summit. In the end, the decision was made to go with an Irish company called Earth's Edge in November 2017. The months beforehand, were spent gathering the required gear needed for the expedition and before long it was time to fly to Tanzania to begin an attempt at reaching the roof of Africa, which stands at 5,986 meters.

Expedition:

Day 1:

Upon arriving in Arusha, we checked into a Hotel, for our last night of luxury! The tour group was made up of people of all ages, levels of fitness and with different levels of experience in the mountains. We had a meal,followed by an expedition briefing with some motivation added in by our leader and a gear check. The prospect of the gear check made me nervous. The group was given a list of the mandatory items we were supposed to bring and with my extremely limited experience of mountain expeditions, I had decided that most of those items were not really that important! The gear I did have was from such reputable outdoor retailers as Penney's, Tesco, TK Max, Dunnes Stores and Aldi. Fortunately, my roommate was a like minded minimalist mountain enthusiast, so between the two of us offering to share gear, we were able to negotiate with the expedition leader into letting us go onto the mountain!

That night my roommate and I laughed at our poor state and distinct lack of gear, while we listened to other members of our group stressing, trying to decide what to leave behind as they had not enough room in their bags. We were just two lads from the South East of Ireland who were fit, committed and ready to enjoy what the mountain had in store for us.

Day 2:

The day began with an early start. A final shower with running water and a monster breakfast from the buffet in the hotel. Our bags were loaded onto the bus and away we went, only stopping once along the way at a shop to gather chocolate and treats that would be needed later in the expedition to keep spirits high.

Hours later, we entered Kilimanjaro National Park through the Machame Gate. A wet miserable rain fell as we walked through the beautiful forest, our focus was on keeping dry as we hiked a winding inclined path. I spent most of the day with a plastic poncho on over my Penney's Windbreaker. The hair on my legs standing out straight with the cold, as I was wearing red shorts. All the pictures in the brochures showed Tanzania to be a beautiful sunny country and what clothes I had packed were more suitable for a beach holiday!

The Porters supporting our expedition were assigned to carry our larger bags, food, tents and every other thing imaginable that a group made up of Irish people may need to climb a mountain of Kilimanjaro's stature.

These guys where truly fascinating just to witness. Their physical ability to carry such large loads at altitude, at ease and speed along the trails was incredible.

After a few kilometers the group stopped for another break. We were now in the middle of the most beautiful tropical rain forest. Had the rain not been pelting down, we would have surely been treated to the sight and sounds of birds singing or monkeys playing in the trees. However, as I huddled into the bark of a tree for shelter, eating an orange peel and carrot sandwich (a local favorite) I wasn't too concerned about the beauty of the forest but more focused on keeping dry and warm, which was not by any means easy as I was still shivering in my shorts.

We walked on and after an hour reached our first camp - Machame Camp. The place was littered with tents of all makes, colours and shapes with the sound of many different languages being spoken within them. Kilimanjaro has a phenomenal scatter of people from different nationalities on its slopes all aiming to stand beside the famous sign at its summit.

As we settled into camp it was hard to find anything dry. We were coming close to the African rainy season, this is the lottery you play trying to climb this mountain in November. Tea, Food and more tea was consumed in the Mess Tent before we made our way to bed for our first night on the mountain.

Day 3:

We woke up, the clouds had cleared and the sun was shining. Everyone was now in good spirits following a good night’s sleep. Our first breakfast on the mountain consisted of porridge and pancakes with fruit. It was lovely.

We got our gear together and set off. The incline on today's route was steep and we could see the group's ahead of us disappear into the fog as it rose with the sun. 'Pole Pole' was the mantra constantly used by the guides as they shuffled along like old men at the front of the group, keeping a slow pace to which we had to follow. ‘Pole Pole' translates from Swahili to English as ‘Slowly Slowly. With this we were able to acclimatize slowly, take in the views and give the porters a chance to get ahead of us with the equipment.

As we were walking, the weather deteriorated, the morning sun turning into rain and fog. It was miserable. Throughout the group there was little conversation, people withdrew into themselves. This would happen a few times during the trip, usually where the route got a small bit difficult or if the weather turned bad. During these moments, I would think of the weirdest of things - like going on holidays as a child in Clonea, Having a pint back at the hotel in Arusha when we got down off this mountain or What to buy my mother and girlfriend for Christmas. Your mind would wonder free - No internet, No Outside Communication, No media. It was bliss!

As we approached Shira Camp, the rain got heavier and it was bitter cold. When we reached the camp, I got into my tent and then more out of boredom than anything else then got into my sleeping bag. My sleeping bag was designed to be comfortable at -15 Degrees Celsius, so it was cozy.

Here I relaxed and waited for dinner. After another fantastic meal, we chatted in the Mess Tent for a while before tiredness called each of us to get tucked into our sleeping bags. Another day on the mountain done.

Day 4:

This was going to be a big day according to all the reading material that exists in relation Kilimanjaro. The general rule is, if you are in good shape at the top of Lava Tower (4,630 m), you are likely to be fit to reach the top.

That morning, the going was slow. ‘Pole Pole’ had become part of our lives, as we moved at a snails pace. The sun shone and spirits were high. Up until this point, the majority of trekking we had done was under the cover of rain and cloud. The hiking we done was all uphill but very gradual, with nothing even slightly technical or demanding in terms of the route. That said however the altitude would make its presence felt if I was to get excited and pick up the pace.

At the top of Lava Tower, we chilled out and had lunch. The idea was to stay up here for a few hours and get used to the altitude before heading down again. Not necessarily feeling bad, I took half an altitude tablet. The majority of the group started taking them the day before we set foot on the mountain however I didn't feel the need. I still felt strong and was unsure as to whether it would be needed. My blood oxygen score was starting to drop so as a precaution I took the tablet, to help with the altitude as the rest of the expedition still lay ahead. I didn't want to have to come down off the mountain with Altitude sickness because I was too stubborn to take a tablet that would help. As we left Lava Tower following lunch the weather changed and out came all the waterproof clothes again. The immediate decent from Lava Tower was steep and required a bit of care but soon after the route was a pleasurable decent as we moved along in silence with the rain pouring down. The view of the summit appeared, as we moved down into Barranco Camp.

Barranco Camp is amazing, you have fantastic views of the summit and the Barranco Wall. As you make camp that afternoon, the Barranco Wall an intimidating rock face that stands almost vertical over the campsite. By myself, I spent ages tracing the route we would take up the rock face the next day. That night after the dinner, I felt pretty poor. However, I got a fantastic score on my blood oxygen test-it was now back into the high 90's, where it should be at sea level. Despite this my stomach felt poor. Initially, I suspected poor water that I may have drank but looking back now it was most likely my reaction to the altitude tablet taken at Lava Tower. My hands were covered in pins and needles that were more severe than any pins and needles I had suffered before this is a side effect in using . Before getting into bed that night, I could see head lights makings their way from left to right slowly up along the Baranco Wall, presumably they were porters carrying supplies between the camps, this blew my mind. Eventually I got into my sleeping bag but from the outset I did not feel comfortable. It was a long night, I got up regularly to the toilet. My stomach was in knots, another known side effect of the altitude tablet.

Day 5:

After a poor night of sleep. It was frustrating getting in and out of my sleeping bag in the cold. I was actually delighted to see daylight and get moving.

The Baranco Wall looked cool. No matter how bad a state I was in, this was the type of adventure I love and had signed up for. Breakfast for me was light, eating more for the sake of eating rather than the feeling that it was needed. Following one last visit to the toilet, I was ready to get going. Spirits were high, as we took our first steps onto the wall. Despite how intimidating the wall looked from the campsite, for the most part, it was very much ok. Passing Kissing Rock was probably the most exciting part while up on the Baranco Wall. The small scary section is called Kissing Rock because of how close people get to it as they hold onto the mountain rock face and shuffle sideways along, not looking back at the drop that exists behind them. This was no problem for our group as we shuffled past. However, members from other groups struggled with a fear of heights inching along slowly here. When we got to the top we took a break and had a bite to eat. The excitement of the Baranco Wall was now behind us. The adrenaline began to wear off.

On the way up, my stomach was alright but at the top, my stomach once again started to play up and soon enough I was behind a large boulder for a break. The next section was torture as we shuffled along slowly. So often I felt like getting sick as we hiked on towards the next camp. My body was now in a bad state. I felt really tired as we hiked. The expedition leaders kept a close eye on us all to ensure we were coping well with the altitude. If we were seen to struggle, they could potentially send us back down the mountain. This made me nervous. I had seen them use this power already to send members of our group down- that they felt were struggling to acclimatize.

I tried to sing as I walked but at times had to stop, unsure if I would vomit. Eventually at the top of the final climb of the day, we reached Karanga Camp. The porters as always had our tents setup and as soon as was sociably acceptable I got into the tent and wrapped up in my sleeping bag. The group had lunch but I stayed in my sleeping bag. This set off alarm bells with the leaders. They came to check on me, I could only tell them that I wasn't hungry and needed some rest. Resting in the tent was just what the body needed. It was great to catch up on some rest after the awful broken night’s sleep of the night before. That evening I got to the dinner table in good spirits, ready to display to the group my return to full health. Next thing the kitchen porters started to bring out food and with the smell an overwhelming feeling of nausea came over me. Excusing myself from the table I quickly made my way outside and only making it a couple of yards outside, threw up. Despite the fact the leaders were now without doubt aware of my ill health, I was delighted as I now felt almost instantly better. My stomach settled and after taking some water on board, I then went into the mess tent and had a small bit to eat. The leaders were happy that I was still taking food on board and that my blood oxygen levels were remaining high. That night in the mess tent I was close to being back to myself chatting away and messing around with the rest of the group. Eventually it was time to bring to an end another tough day on the mountain. That night I slept relatively well and I was more determined than ever to get to the top after making it so far.

Day 6:

From Karanga Camp we were going to ascend 800 meters to Kosovo Camp (4,800 m). That morning the views of Kilimanjaro and the plains of Tanzania were fantastic. Following breakfast, the porters gathered together to perform a song and dance for us to motivate us for the day ahead.

Once again we set off moving Pole Pole uphill it was clear to see we were getting closer to the summit. That day I moved well. The mountain landscape changed, with no vegetation only burnt crispy rock covering the ground. Slowly we moved forward, after the terrible day before I was now determined to show my rapid recovery and moved strongly while chatting away to everyone as we moved.

After a short but steep incline we made it to the top and onto a more prominent path where all the routes to the top seemed to merge. After a break, we moved on again climbing towards our last camp on the way up. Eventually we reached Kosovo Camp. It was clear we were at altitude now, the chat around the dinner table was minimal. The porters had prepared chips for lunch and I devoured them, timing is everything and it was great to be back in good shape the evening before our summit attempt. Some people struggled to function at Kosovo with the reduced oxygen. After an hour or two up there I felt good. The evening was spent chilling out and resting in our tents. Our summit attempt was scheduled to begin at 3 am and everyone was happy to conserve energy. After a bit of rest I was up and about again, not one for forcing rest on myself. I preferred to be up in the mess tent having a chat with the porters and the kitchen staff. These porters are amazing and during your time on the mountain you start to get to know them and learn their back stories. They tried to teach me some Swahili and were good fun to be around.

That night was cold as temperatures reached close to minus 20 Degrees Celsius. My sleeping bag was only comfortable to -15 Degrees Celsius, I added in a liner that thankfully made it nice and warm. I had a good night’s sleep as the wind rattled the tent. During the night I hardly moved from the warmth of my sleeping bag except for a trip to the toilet which consisted of getting fully dressed in warm clothes to cross the snow covered campsite with a head torch!

Day 7:

In total darkness, the porters gave a call to wake us up. At 3 am we started wrapping up in layers to set out for the summit. We assembled in the mess tent. The cold was now piercing. I couldn't wait to get moving, in the hope that moving might help me warm up. We set off in the dark, moving slowly up what looked like a white wall as the light of the moon shone upon the ice and snow. After an hour or more of hiking, looking down the mountain a chain of head lights could be seen winding their way up, as teams from a lower camp set out for the summit. Our group leaders played an absolute blinder as they sang and encouraged each of us up the mountain keeping the morale of the group as a whole high. Despite the leaders encouragement, there were still many periods of silence with nothing but the sound of breathing and heavy footsteps. During these periods, there was plenty of time to contemplate my motivation for doing this, as the cold numbed my fingers to the point that all I felt was pins and needles. With every step we were getting closer to the summit but we were also getting higher in terms of altitude and it became harder to breath. The water bottles that were filled that morning had started to freeze in the back of my bag. As I drank from them, I could feel the icicles hit my throat before the freezing water entered my stomach. Thankfully the sun started to rise and the views above the clouds were beautiful. The difference in temperature the sun brought was very welcome. The sun gently started to make its presence felt helping us to warm up.

Eventually we made it to Stella Point. We had completed the toughest section of the summit attempt. We were now on top of the volcanic crater. At Stella Point we stopped for a cup of tea from a flask the leader was carrying but none of us wanted to dwell here too long.From Stella Point to the summit the incline was no where near as intense as it had been from Kosovo camp. The group now stretched out as people got excited at the prospect of being so close to the top. With the sun out and the iconic wooden sign now in sight, I was close to the top and feeling pretty proud of what I was soon going to achieve.

We reached the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro at 5,985 metres. From the tippy top, you could see the extent of the volcanic crater on one side and ice glaciers on the other. Below the clouds, the land stretched out far as the eye could see. Each person grabbed a few quick pictures in front of the summit sign and then we took a team photo.

Within a few minutes of reaching the summit, we then turned around and set off back down the mountain. It was weird going down as we had spent 7 days concentrating on going up. The quads got some shock. With every footstep down, I could feel the strength come back into my lungs. It was like the air was more plentiful.

Through all the layers of clothing and with the sun now high in the sky the heat was pretty intense. We walked down laughing and joking but there was still a lot of concentration required. The release of energy and emotion used in getting to the summit left many in the group exhausted on the way down. Eventually, Kosovo Camp was in view. It was nice to think that in a short while I would get to rest having climbed the highest mountain in Africa and one of the Seven Summits.

When we reached camp I was still buzzing. A rest was the best I could hope for as other members of the group went into their tents for a mid-day nap. Following a break we ate lunch and in a change of clothes made our way down to Millennium Camp which was 2,064 m down from the summit. The difference in altitude could be seen in everyone’s mood, as oxygen now flooded our lungs. The route down to Millennium Camp was pretty baron and straight. As we went down we met two boys heading up the mountain with a cart on one wheel, one pulling at the top while the other pushed from the back. This was Kilimanjaro's version of an ambulance. Some poor unfortunate was up the mountain in a bad state depending on these boys to bring them down. I felt lucky that our group was healthy and well, all smitten with our achievement. Millennium Camp was like a celebration when we got there. It had been a long day, we had been more than 16 hours on our feet. Dinner that night was good fun in the mess tent. The group was full of chat discussing the struggles of our days on the mountain and the celebrations some people had planned upon getting home. Following a late night chatting in the mess tent, I made my way to bed bringing to an end a long day on the mountain.

Day 8:

Our last day on the mountain. The porters got together that morning to sing and dance celebrating the success of the expedition. Following the festivities our group handed over our tips to the porters. This was the porters last expedition before the rainy season. They would return to their families for a couple of weeks, catch up on education or work as Safari guides.

The last section of the hike went down through the rain forest where all manner of insects and birds could be seen. At one point we stopped to look at monkeys swinging from vines and scuttle up branches into the cover of leaves. As we moved on, the end the path led us out into a car park and we were now officially down off the mountain. A round of beer was bought and we sat in the shade celebrating the end of a successful expedition and a magnificent achievement.

Mount Kilimanjaro Tips:

The majority of the points below are lessons I learned the hard way.

• Down jackets are the best way to keep warm in the evenings. They are light to carry and can be packed up small. Get a good one, I've worn it a lot since getting back home.

• Head torch, some brands of head torch stop working in severe cold. My 3 euro head torch only barely done the job. The light died and I was in the dark for not too long thankfully before the sun rose.

• Mittens are better than Gloves - Of course I wore ski gloves and my fingers were frozen on summit night. Warm mittens keep your fingers together which helps retain heat. In gloves fingers are isolated and harder to keep warm. Some people had hand warmers that they could press and insert into their mittens.

• November is close to the rainy season in Tanzania. Try and avoid going at this time. I've since spoken to people who climbed Kilimanjaro earlier in year and had a totally different experience to what I had.

• Try out the Altitude Tablets you may use well in advance of getting onto the mountain. There are a few different brands of tablet to help with altitude. Different tablets have different side effects so be aware of what they are and how your body will react to them. Like an idiot, I had no tablets going onto the mountain. The expedition doctor had a heap of spare tablets and recommended a half tablet if I felt I needed it. A half tablet was more than enough for me!!

• Be prepared to move slowly- ‘Pole Pole’ (Slowly, Slowly) are words to live by on the mountain. Altitude can affect anyone at any time. As soon as you walk fast or even get up out of a chair too fast you can feel the effects of altitude with a sense of light headedness or find it hard to breathe.

• Digestion finds a new rhythm at Altitude- it can speed up or slow right down. Be conscious about what you eat and make sure to drink plenty of water.

• It's an expedition, there is a lot of spare time. Bring a book, write a diary, play cards, take a nap or have a chat over a cup of tea to pass time.